How to Construct a Tailored Collar with Pad Stitching

A tailored collar is constructed differently from a shirt collar. Where a shirt collar is two layers of fabric sewn flat and turned, a tailored collar uses pad stitching, hair canvas, and shaping to create a collar that rolls naturally against the neck. The difference is dramatic: a shirt collar is flat; a tailored collar has structure.

This guide covers the construction of a two-piece tailored collar with hair canvas. The technique applies to blazers, suit jackets, and tailored coats. It pairs with our pad stitching guide.

The two pieces

The upper collar is the visible top, cut from fashion fabric, ideally on the bias for soft drape. The undercollar sits beneath and carries the hair canvas. It is pad-stitched to give it shape and curl.

What you need

Upper collar pattern piece in fashion fabric (cut on bias if possible). Undercollar pattern piece. Hair canvas cut to undercollar shape minus seam allowances. Hand-sewing needles, silk thread for pad stitching, tailor’s ham (essential for shaping).

Step 1: Cut and prepare pieces

Cut the upper collar on the bias if possible. Cut the undercollar in two halves with a centre back seam. Cut hair canvas to match the undercollar exactly, minus 1 cm seam allowance.

Step 2: Sew the centre back seam of undercollar

Sew the two undercollar halves with a 1 cm seam allowance, pressed open.

Step 3: Attach hair canvas to undercollar

Position the hair canvas on the wrong side of the undercollar (sitting just inside the seam allowances). Baste around the perimeter and through the centre.

Step 4: Pad stitch the undercollar

Pad stitches are small, diagonal stitches that catch the canvas to the undercollar without showing on the right side. The angle of the stitches encourages the collar to curl in a specific direction.

For a collar: stitches angle from upper-right to lower-left. Use small stitches (3-4 mm). Work in parallel rows about 5-7 mm apart. As you pad stitch, periodically curl the collar over your fingers in the direction it will sit. The pad stitches lock that curl into the structure.

Step 5: Shape the collar with steam

Place the pad-stitched undercollar over a tailor’s ham. Steam-press into the curve. The steam plus the pad stitches sets the curve permanently.

Step 6: Trim seam allowances

Trim the canvas seam allowances to nothing. The undercollar fabric’s seam allowances stay full at 1 cm.

Step 7: Attach upper collar to undercollar

Place the upper collar and undercollar right sides together. The bias-cut upper collar is slightly larger than the undercollar (intentionally). Pin from the centre out, easing in differences. Sew around the three outer edges. Trim seam allowances and corners.

Step 8: Turn and press

Turn right-side out. Press the seam allowances open from the wrong side first, then press flat from the right side. Use a press cloth on wool.

Step 9: Attach to the garment neckline

Mark shoulder match points on both collar and bodice. Pin the collar to the neckline, right sides together. Sew along the neckline. Press the seam allowance into the collar.

Common mistakes

The collar does not curl: pad stitches were too loose, or steam-pressing was insufficient. Re-pad-stitch with tighter stitches.

The upper collar pulls: re-cut on the bias and add 5 mm of ease.

The collar twists: pad stitches angle inconsistently. Re-do with consistent angle direction.

The collar is bulky at the neckline: trim canvas seam allowances aggressively. Grade seam allowances.

The bias upper collar stretches: stay-tape bias edges before attaching.

Hair canvas vs fusible

Traditional tailoring uses woven hair canvas: pad stitching is possible, lasts a lifetime, has natural elasticity, is breathable. Modern tailoring often uses fusible weft interfacing: faster, lower cost, easier. For a true tailored collar with the rolled curve of a bespoke jacket, hair canvas with pad stitching is the only option.

What this unlocks

A pad-stitched tailored collar is a foundation for tailored blazers, tailored coats, and couture-quality garments. The collar is often the visible signature of a bespoke jacket.

For the broader advanced skill set, see our advanced tailoring roadmap. For hand-finishing techniques, see our hand finishing techniques guide.

Closing thought

A tailored collar is one of the most distinctive details of a hand-tailored garment. The construction is slow — easily 4-6 hours of pad stitching — but the result holds its shape through years of wear and signals real tailoring to anyone who knows what to look for.