French Tacks and Thread Chains: Invisible Anchoring for Linings

A French tack is a small flexible thread bridge that holds a lining hem to the garment hem at strategic points. Unlike a straight stitch (which pulls the lining tight against the garment), a French tack creates a few centimetres of give — the lining can swing freely with the garment but stays anchored.

A thread chain is a related technique: a longer flexible bridge made of crocheted thread that serves the same purpose but with more length. Used most often to attach a free-hanging lining to a coat hem.

These small techniques are the difference between a lining that hangs cleanly through years of wear and one that twists, bunches, or pulls.

When and why to use them

In a fully lined coat, the lining is sewn to the coat at the neckline, the armholes, and the front edges — but the hem is typically left free. The lining hem and the coat hem are separate pieces that move independently. Without anchoring, the lining can flop around inside the coat, twist, or peek out at the bottom edge.

French tacks and thread chains solve this. Placed at strategic points (typically the side seams and the centre back), they hold the lining in place without making it stiff.

What you need

Hand-sewing needle (size 8 or 9). Doubled thread (matches the lining colour). Optional: beeswax for stronger thread. Scissors.

French tack: step by step

Step 1: Position the lining

Position the lining inside the garment so the lining hem hangs about 2-3 cm above the garment hem.

Step 2: Mark the tack position

The standard locations are: at each side seam (2 tacks), and at the centre back (1 tack). Some patterns use more (4-6 total). Mark each position on both the garment hem and the lining hem.

Step 3: Sew the bridge

1. Thread the needle with doubled thread. Knot the end.
2. From the wrong side, take a small stitch in the garment hem at the tack position. Pull through.
3. Take a small stitch in the lining hem 2-4 cm away (the bridge length). Pull through.
4. Repeat — go back to the garment hem, then back to the lining. Continue 4-6 times, building up a bundle of threads spanning between the two hems.
5. Wrap the bundle: starting at one end, wrap the thread around the bundle in tight coils until you reach the other end. This consolidates the bundle into a sturdy cord.
6. Knot off and trim.

The result is a small thread cord (about 2-4 cm long) connecting the two hems.

Thread chain: step by step

A thread chain is a longer, more flexible version of the French tack, made by crocheting thread with the fingers.

Step 1: Start the chain

1. Thread the needle with doubled thread, knotted at the end.
2. From inside the garment, take a small stitch at the anchor point. Pull through, leaving the knot on the inside.
3. Pass the needle and thread back through the loop you just made.

Step 2: Build the chain

1. Hold the loop loosely between thumb and finger.
2. Pull a new loop of thread through the existing loop (using your finger or the needle).
3. Tighten the previous loop (don’t pull too tight — leave it loose enough to be flexible).
4. Repeat: pull a new loop through the latest loop, tighten the previous one.

Continue until the chain is the desired length (typically 4-8 cm).

Step 3: Attach the other end

1. To finish: pass the thread through the last loop and pull tight (closing the chain).
2. Attach the chain’s free end to the lining at the corresponding point with a few small stitches.

The result is a flexible chain of crocheted thread, similar to a single-stitch crochet chain.

When to use which

French tacks are quicker (5 minutes per tack) and produce a shorter, sturdier bridge. Best for short bridges (2-4 cm) at side seams and centre back of jackets and coats.

Thread chains are slower (10-15 minutes per chain) but produce a longer, more flexible bridge. Best for longer bridges (5-10 cm), or when extra movement is needed (e.g., between a coat hem and a free-hanging lining hem in formal wear).

For most home tailoring, French tacks are sufficient.

Common mistakes

The lining is too tight or too loose: adjust the bridge length. The lining hem should hang slightly above the garment hem with the bridge slack but not floppy.

The bridge twists or pulls: the bridge is too short, or attached at the wrong point. Re-do at the correct length.

The bridge breaks: thread wasn’t beeswaxed, or single thread was used. Use doubled thread, beeswaxed for extra strength.

The lining still shifts despite tacks: more tack points are needed, or the lining is too long. Add tacks, or trim and re-hem the lining.

When to skip them

For unlined or partially lined garments, no tacks are needed.

For modern soft-construction jackets where the lining is meant to flow freely, fewer tacks (or none) are sometimes preferred.

For fully bagged linings (where the lining is sewn to the garment along all edges, including the hem), the tacks aren’t needed because the hems are already connected.

What this unlocks

Mastery of French tacks and thread chains enables: cleanly hanging linings in jackets and coats, professional finishing details that distinguish handmade from factory-made, and proper anchoring for free-hanging garment linings.

For the broader advanced skill set, see our advanced tailoring roadmap. For the lining work that French tacks support, see our working with linings guide and fully lined coat guide.

Closing thought

French tacks and thread chains are tiny details that 99% of garment wearers never notice. But for the wearer of a hand-tailored jacket, they’re what makes the lining hang cleanly through years of wear without twisting or shifting. Two minutes per tack — total of 8-12 minutes per garment — is a small investment for a result that lasts the lifetime of the coat.